There's a big problem-- their exoskeletons are very hard to digest. Mealworms are mostly a hard plastic-like exoskeleton with a bit of meat in the middle. Superworms are a more meatier version of mealworms. Think of their exoskeletons like the thick, inedible plastic covering on the end of a shrimp. You can technically eat it, but it doesn't taste good (sorta feels like eating fingernails).
Munch's insect diet-- and really his WHOLE diet-- in the past few months has been superworms. Bits and pieces of the exoskeletons have built up in his guts and are contributing to the bloating he now has.
Thankfully this morning he was able to poop but it was almost entirely parts & pieces of superworm shells. I'm going to post a picture and it's gross, but informative. I'll even make it smaller than normal. The pic doesn't do it justice, but as I looked through the poop, I counted at least 2 dozen "shell" pieces. What a relief for him to start moving that through his system.
Have you ever stuck a stick in a slightly flowing river or stream? It instantly starts to collect debris from the river-- a leaf, a stick, etc. If you leave even a thin stick in the stream long enough, eventually it will collect enough debris to form quite a sizeable dam, stopping the water flow in that area.
That's how I describe the "flow" of a beardie's intestines. A single piece of calcium sand, a bit of crushed walnut shell, or even a small piece of exoskeleton alone do not pose a problem to a healthy beardie's digestive system. But over time those small pieces will start to accumulate debris that can lead to a potentially fatal blockage/impaction.
Munch had a fecal test done last night at the vet and it showed a massive overgrowth of pinworms and pinworm eggs. Pinworm eggs are very sticky and attach themselves to everything (intestines, substrate, anything). If you have a small blockage and a couple of pinworms (which most beardies do), it won't be long before you have a larger blockage and an overload of pinworms. That's what happened to Munch. We are treating him for pinworms, but since his belly is not currently absorbing any fluids (not sure why), the dewormer med is largely ineffective.
SO, can you safely feed superworms and mealworms to your dragons? Yes, but think of them as beardie cheeseburgers and offer them as a treat. Roaches & silkworms are two of my most favorite feeders. Hornworms and Phoenix worms are my second favorites. Wax worms are largely like small cheesecake pieces and are perfect for putting weight on emaciated beardies. Superworms are okay. Mealworms are NEVER okay for beardies under a year-- not worth the risk of exoskeleton impaction.
Variety is key when feeding a beardie. Swap out your insects and greens often so they don't get bored of one particular thing. Only feeding one or two items is more likely to lead to nutritional deficiencies. When I tell people that, I almost always am asked "But what if they don't eat?" Most pet beardies are WAY overfed. Unless your beardie is very young or recovering from trauma, they can stand a few days of hunger to help motivate them to try new foods.
If you have a beardie under a year or a sickly beardie, you'll need to supplement their diet with some baby food or Critical Care from your vet. Don't let them go more than a day without eating since their bodies can't handle it. Otherwise, practice a little "Tough Love" and let your beardies become hungry enough to start eating their greens & veggies & other insects.
Also, an adult beardie (over a year and a half) will be *healthier* if you only feed insects once a week! YES! You read that right! I do every 10 to 14 days in the winter when they are less active. In the Spring and Summer, I do every 7 to 10 days. I've found that feeding less protein has made my guys much much healthier. They may look at you longingly and beg for feeder insects, but stay strong, Friends! Your beardie will be healthier and live longer with less protein in their diet.
Any questions? Post your comment below.
